Francisco Costa was firing on all cylinders with his Spring/Summer 2016 collection. Taking hold of the current fashion trend towards 90s styles, the designer revisited the iconic slip dress silhouette that is almost synonymous with the Calvin Klein brand he represents.

But this collection was less Kate Moss than it was Courtney Love circa 1995 when the singer famously wore a vintage champagne silk slip and a $2 dollar tiara to an Oscar party. Costa titled the collection “The morning after” and one has to wonder what exactly happened the night before.

These dresses were deconstructed and rebelliously crafted to look intentionally unfinished. Bra cups designed to support ample bosoms sagged low and flat against the concave chests of the runway models, their intense stares almost daring the audience to make a remark. It was a silhouette Costa worked and reworked throughout the show in silk, knitwear, and even sequins. Sometimes they came with chains of body jewelry used to highlight the curves, or the lack thereof, of the female forms. Alternatively, they finished off in shoulder straps with superfluous fabric left to flap in the wind.

This deflated chest look has already popped up on other catwalks, most notably Celine, but Costa unapologetically made it his own. And they weren’t the only interesting thing this collection had to offer.

A series of flower print pieces had a more commercial appeal and trousers with slits open at the back hem looked cool as they flapped along the models’ legs while they walked the catwalk in white silk platform sneakers.

Costa found an exciting and unpredictable way to make the worlds of 90s grunge and 90s minimalism collide on the Klein catwalk. Now, with over a decade at the helm of the brand’s womenswear, it is impressive to see the designer continuing to take risks and be bold. This season, those gambles paid off.